FEATURES: Judges & Winners

Texprint 2017 Paris: Première Vision Designs

21 September 2017 by Roger Tredre

The 24 designers chosen for Texprint this year went to Paris in September for Première Vision Designs – the highlight of the Texprint experience. Here’s what happened.

In Paris, things get serious. For most of the 24 young Texprint designers, the experience of exhibiting at Première Vision Designs (September 19-21) is their first contact with the real world of business. “It’s very different from the Texprint exhibition in London,” said Olivia Qi. “It’s much more about business.”

Designer Olivia Qi shows her collection to buyers

That means early starts (5.45am), three long days on the stands, and a readiness to sell, market, and generally eulogise your work to everyone who passes by. A total of 39 pieces of work were sold on the first day of PV, delighting the designers. But the joy of selling much-loved work can also be tinged with sadness. Lucy Day sold one of her favourite samples. “It’s got a lot of my identity in it,” said Day. “I think the buyer could see the despair on my face.”

The Paris experience is a true learning process, with the designers supported by the experienced Texprint team including Creative Director Peter Ring-Lefevre, Designer Liaison Gillian Little, Sponsorship Director Joanna Bowring and International Communications Executive Kate Harris.

In particular, designers learn how to refine their work for the broader commercial market. Ilana Avital, one of the busiest Texprint designers in Paris, found buyers attracted by the bold colours in her work. However, some of her more technical designs were overlooked. “It’s too complex to be produced industrially. I need to focus on my more commercial designs in the future – buyers have been really eager for these.”

Designer Ilana Avital shows her collection to buyers

While the proud recording of a first sale is an important rite of passage for any textile designer, Texprint’s greater importance is in establishing connections and opportunities for the longer term future. Angelica Chrysanthou noted: “The networking experience is actually more important than the selling.”

Abigail Barnes added: “It’s so great to talk to people in the industry. When you’re making, you get obsessed in your own creation bubble. Now I’m receiving feedback that really helps.”

Designer Abigail Barnes shows her work to Yuma Koshino and Peter Ring-Lefevre

The designers were also job hunting. Kate Connell, who studied textile print at Glasgow School of Art, had already landed a job (starting in October) before she got to Paris. “Tamara from Pentland was on this year’s Texprint interview panel, and we stayed in contact, so I really got the job through Texprint. After Texprint in London, Pentland interviewed me and offered me it – they loved my sporty prints and sports aesthetic and my fabric manipulation that is perfect for accessories.”

After a busy first day, the second day in Paris concluded with the award presentation hosted by Texprint chair Barbara Kennington. The event gave Kennington the opportunity to share the news that Texprint is to be rebranded from January 2018. The plan is to change the charity’s name to TexSelect to reflect more accurately the diversity of the participating textile designers. Kennington also emphasised Texprint’s digital marketing initiatives in recent months, including investment in social media communication through Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.

And then there were the awards. First up, a new award from UK retailer Marks & Spencer – the Marks & Spencer Texprint Fashion Textile Award – which went to Roberta Fox (who also won the Texprint Colour Award). Libby Allan, Trend Lead, Womenswear & Lingerie, at Marks & Spencer, said the judging had been a challenge. “At M&S, we passionately believe in supporting young design talent… and I’ve been blown away by the creativity and diversity and ambition.”

Libby Allan, Trend Lead Marks & Spencer, speaking on the new M&S Texprint Fashion Textile Award

Also on the winners’ podium were three of the most promising talents from this year’s Texprint – Charlotte Des’Ascoyne won the Texprint Award for Fashion, Lucy Day for Interiors, and Angelica Chrysanthou for Pattern.

Japanese fashion designer Yuma Koshino, from the legendary Koshino family, presented the awards. She is famed for her inventive combination of modern technique with Japanese tradition, and has drawn on both Western and Eastern style in her ground-breaking collections. Speaking to the Texprint designers, she emphasised the need for a new generation of designers to deliver “higher level creation that people can relate to.”

Designer Freya Richmond shows her collection to Yuma Koshino and Peter Ring-Lefevre

Finally, the prestigious The Woolmark Company Texprint Award went to Rosie Moorman, a woven textile designer who works solely with wool and other noble fibres. She handweaves and hand dyes her work, using her own loom and developing her own colour chips. The collection shown at Première Visions Designs was inspired by the landscapes and moorlands of her native Yorkshire.

Woolmark judge Roberto Sarti of famed Italian textile manufacturer Lanificio Faliero Sarti said: “Rosie’s work uses colour beautifully and she has developed her ideas so well. There is a spirit of experimentation, but she also shows a good technique for industry.”

Winner of The Woolmark Company Texprint Award, Rosie Moorman, with judges Roberto Sarti and Charles Jeffrey

In a sense, all the Texprint designers were award winners. And the most pleasing aspect of the designers’ progress in Paris was the steady growth in their confidence. Three days in Paris can turn a hesitant novice into an impressively assured professional. As Ilana Avital, one of the best-selling designers of the week, put it: “I was quite shy in London. Now I’ve learned how to speak to people.”

Old friends!  Roberto Sarti and Yuma Koshino

Designer Bryan Lam shows his collection to Charles Jeffrey and Roberto Sarti

Designer Joe Whitbread shows his collection to buyers

Designer Nina Butler shows her work to The Woolmark Company judges, Charles Jeffrey and Roberto Sarti

Designer Lucy Day shows her collection to buyers

Designer Sophie Harrison shows her collection to buyers

Designer Charlotte Des'Ascoyne shows her collection to buyers

Designer Maddie Whalley shows her collection to buyers

Designer Freya Richmond shows her collection to buyers

Texprint 2017 designers

Introducing Texprint 2017 prize presenter: Yuma Koshino, designer

13 September 2017 by Roger Tredre

Renowned Japanese fashion designer Yuma Koshino is to present the Texprint Awards in Paris on September 20. This is a very special moment for Texprint, not least because Koshino…

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New Award: The Marks & Spencer Texprint Fashion Textile Award

07 September 2017 by Roger Tredre

Inspiration board for M&S Autumn Winter 2017 ranges

Iconic British retailer Marks & Spencer has sponsored a new award for Texprint this year. We spoke to Libby Allan, Trend Lead, Womenswear & Lingerie, to find out more.

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Sarti, Jeffrey to Judge The Woolmark Company Texprint Award

27 August 2017 by Roger Tredre

Charles Jeffrey

Two major names from different but complementary backgrounds are judging this year’s The Woolmark Company Texprint Award in Paris.

From Italy, Texprint is honoured to welcome Roberto Sarti…

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Photo Report: Texprint London 2017, celebrating emerging design talent

25 July 2017 by Editor

Texprint London, held Read more >

Texprint Council: new member Carlo Volpi

16 July 2017 by Roger Tredre

Texprint alumnus Carlo Volpi, the Italian knitwear designer, has joined the Texprint Council which meets twice yearly to monitor and review how the charity is performing against its aims and objectives. We…

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Texprint 2017: Notebook from London

09 July 2017 by Roger Tredre

The story of Texprint London 2017: we gathered reflections from designers, judges and industry guests at Chelsea College of Arts.

London was at its best. The sun was…

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Meet the 2017 judges: Guy Goodfellow, interior designer

29 June 2017 by April Kosky & Kristina Ezhova

Interior designer Guy Goodfellow is joining the judges of this year’s Texprint awards. We talked to him and creative director Jaine McCormack about the Guy Goodfellow Collection of fine…

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Texprint Council: new member Andrew Stevenson of Paul Smith

13 June 2017 by Harriet Wolstenholme & Marijn Brok

Texprint alumnus Andrew Stevenson, now a senior textile designer at Paul Smith, has joined the Texprint Council which meets twice-yearly to monitor and review how the charity is performing against its aims…

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Meet the 2017 judges: Eric Musgrave, fashion industry consultant and writer

05 June 2017 by Celia Fernández-Carnicero

Photo credit: Laura Lewis

Eric Musgrave has joined the judging panel for this year’s Texprint awards. We spoke to him about his love for textiles and observations on the changing industry.

Walk…

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Meet the 2017 judges: Elsa May, Product Manager Fashion of Première Vision Paris

17 May 2017 by Roger Tredre

Elsa May of Première Vision is one of the judges of this year’s Texprint Awards. We spoke to her about creativity and working for PV.

Elsa May is…

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Texprint alumna stories: Cherica Haye, designer, Rolls-Royce Bespoke

17 April 2017 by Roger Tredre

Cherica Haye, a Texprint designer in 2013, now creates beautiful car interiors for Rolls-Royce.

She’s a designer who specialises in material makeup and innovation for the luxury goods…

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ComOn 2016: the designer’s view from Como

10 December 2016 by Editor

The Italian trade organisation Unindustria Como represents a core of 300 Como-based textile companies and is responsible for organising the ComON programme, now in its tenth year.

Unindustria…

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Texprint at Intertextile Shanghai, October 2016

25 November 2016 by Editor

Amy Smith and Jacob Monk on The Bund against the iconic Shanghai skyline

October 2016 saw Texprint exhibit for the fourth time at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics sponsored by Messe Frankfurt (HK), and again it was an incredibly positive experience for two…

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Meet the Sponsor: Julie Davies, The Woolmark Company

02 November 2016 by Roger Tredre

Judging The Woolmark Company Texprint Award 2016 at Première Vision Designs

Texprint has worked with TWC for much of its 40-year existence, and the synergy of interests between the two parties has been nurtured by a succession of remarkable individuals.

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Texprint 2016 Paris: Première Vision Designs

15 September 2016 by Roger Tredre

Texprint’s young designers exhibit for the first time on the international stage at PremièreVision Designs in Paris. We report on a very special three days.

The 24 young…

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Judges for The Woolmark Company Texprint Award Announced

11 September 2016 by Editor

The judges for this year’s The Woolmark Company Texprint Award have been announced. They are Aline Galimberti, chief designer of Dormeuil, and Jonathan Christopher, the 2015-16 European menswear finalist…

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Introducing Texprint 2016 prize presenter: Martin Leuthold, Artistic Director, Jakob Schlaepfer

06 September 2016 by Roger Tredre

Martin Leuthold

He’s a legend in the textile industry. Switzerland’s Martin Leuthold has devoted his career to working for one company, Jakob Schlaepfer, renowned for its innovative textiles for both the…

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New era design: AVA CAD/CAM

11 August 2016 by Editor

The design process is being transformed through the innovative use of new-generation software. Texprint designers checked out the potential of AVA CAD/CAM on a training course this August.

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Texprint 2016: Notebook from London

07 July 2016 by Roger Tredre

How events unfolded at Texprint London 2016 as designers, judges and industry guests gathered at Chelsea College of Arts.

The sun came out for Texprint’s London preview (July…

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Meet the Judges: Pip Jenkins, Head of Design, John Smedley

29 June 2016 by Roger Tredre

Pip Jenkins, Head of Design at John Smedley, has joined the judging panel for Texprint 2016. We spoke to her about her work.

It’s one of the world’s…

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Meet the Judges: Fi Douglas, bluebellgray

17 June 2016 by Roger Tredre

Photo credit: David Pike

The creative director of Glasgow-based bluebellgray is one of the judges of Texprint 2016. Here, Fi Douglas tells us about her working life.

In little more than seven…

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Meet the Judges: Nadia Albertini, couture embroidery designer

30 May 2016 by Roger Tredre

Photo credit: Anne Laure Camilleri

Mexican-born embroidery designer Nadia Albertini, who worked for many years with leading fashion names in Paris, is now based in New York. And she’s coming to London to judge…

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Hero mentoring: helping a new generation of designers

21 March 2016 by Roger Tredre

Hilary Scarlett, Hero Mentor and Texprint alumna

Texprint has stepped up its support for new designers through a Hero Mentoring scheme that is proving very popular.

It could be said that Texprint is one giant…

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Texprint heads east: Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics

25 November 2015 by Editor

Texprint headed east this autumn to exhibit for a third consecutive year at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics (October 13–15), sponsored by Messe Frankfurt (HK) and The Woolmark Company.

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Jessica Leclere wins Woolmark Company Texprint Award 2015

24 September 2015 by Roger Tredre

Winner Jessica Leclere shows her work to Franco Fabrello and Kit Neale

Texprint's long links with The Woolmark Company are celebrated each year with the award of a prize in Paris at Première Vision Designs.

The judging for the Woolmark…

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Texprint 2015 Paris: Première Vision Designs

18 September 2015 by Roger Tredre

Prize presenter Rosita Missoni with Texprint creative director, Peter Ring-Lefevre

The participation of all the Texprint designers in Première Vision Designs in Paris is the climax of the Texprint year. Here’s what happened.

It’s the ultimate challenge – the…

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WGSN report: Texprint 2015 Designers

30 July 2015 by Editor

WGSN is a foundation sponsor of Texprint and believes strongly in the value and importance of supporting emerging creative talent. Its comprehensive report, reproduced below, was written and created…

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Texprint 2015: Notebook from London

06 July 2015 by Roger Tredre

2015 judge Sarah Lowry (Aston Martin Lagonda) reviews the work of designer Nicola Costello

Here’s the inside story of Texprint London 2015, from the interview process to show time at the annual exhibition.

Texprint’s London preview was staged during the hottest weather…

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Meet the judges: Ariane Bigot, associate fashion director of Première Vision Paris

22 June 2015 by Roger Tredre

For the past 15 years, Ariane Bigot, associate fashion director of Pascaline Wilhelm, has worked directly with Première Vision.  Now she brings her wealth of experience to the task of…

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Meet the judges: Sarah Lowry, colour & materials designer at Aston Martin Lagonda

16 June 2015 by Roger Tredre

Sarah Lowry sitting in a bespoke Aston Martin DB9 Volante Q

We talk to Texprint judge Sarah Lowry, colour & materials designer at luxury British sports car manufacturer Aston Martin Lagonda.

The distinguished judging line-up for Texprint 2015 includes…

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Meet the judges: Nicholas Oakwell of Nicholas Oakwell Couture

11 June 2015 by Sarah Waldron

Couturier Nicholas Oakwell talks textiles, embellishment and designing with Sarah Waldron.  Nicholas joins the Texprint 2015 judging panel end June to select this year's prize winners.

If Charles…

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Meet the judges: Julie Hall, head of design, Bedeck

26 May 2015 by Roger Tredre

We talk to Texprint judge Julie Hall, head of design at Bedeck, which is also sponsoring a new award with Texprint.

Textiles for bedding and bathroom are at…

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Winning the first Miroglio Texprint Award: Charlotte Hetheridge

20 February 2015 by Editor

Back in September 2014 at Indigo/PV, the first Miroglio Texprint Award for Digital Innovation was awarded to print designer and Royal College of Art graduate Charlotte Hetheridge.  Besides…

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Surface View: the Texprint 2014 EDITS collection

15 January 2015 by Roger Tredre

© Jessica Stewart sketchbook

Five of this year's Texprint designers have created an outstanding home textiles collection titled Texprint 2014 EDITS in collaboration with Surface View, the bespoke interior decoration company.

Everyone…

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