Alumna Stories: Jayne Goulding
09 November 2016 by Roger Tredre
She was a last-minute pick for Texprint 2015, but turned into one of the year’s biggest success stories. We speak to Jayne Goulding.
A last minute drop-out from the 2015 generation of Texprint designers gave Jayne Goulding a chance to join the line-up in Paris. What then happened was exceptional.
Goulding took orders, orders and more orders. By the end of three days of leading global textiles trade show Première Vision Designs, in terms of orders taken she was arguably the most successful-ever designer to show with Texprint.
Texprint 2015 at Première Vision Designs, Jayne talks to The Woolmark Company Texprint award judges
Experience counts. Goulding, who is now based in Bristol, was an unconventional choice because she already had significant industry experience and had returned to higher education to take a part-time MA at Bath Spa University. She had studied embroidery at Nottingham Trent for her BA and her earlier career included five years working as a lingerie designer for Marks & Spencer, an experience that served her well in anticipating the demands of buyers at Texprint.
Also unconventionally, Goulding had chosen to go solo at a time when she was a mother of two young children – requiring some hefty jugging of schedules and priorities. The children, she laughs, don’t really live in a house – they live in a design studio. Work and family overlap both in the mind and in physical reality. Luckily, boyfriend and partner Duncan Steel, a structural engineer, has the same sense of humour. Listening to our conversation, he adds, smiling: “I’m really supportive because it’s so clearly her passion.”
Working at home with the family
Speaking to her again a year on, back at PVD this September, where she now had her own stand, Goulding recalled the phenomenal sales of 2015. “It was really non-stop. The buyers were drawn to the detail in my work, which includes embroidery and design. They liked the richness and the colour, and the potential for different applications. And it helped that I had garments to show how it can be applied.”
Skip forward to 2016: “After PVD, I thought I’m definitely doing that again! This year, I’ve made slightly fewer sales but I’ve found some great contacts with factories that want to develop relationships. It’s not just about instant sales – you want long-term relationships.”
Jayne Goulding exhibiting independently at Première Vision Designs 2016
She talks through her Autumn/Winter 2017/18 with confidence. “A lot of my work is very conceptual. The high-shine fabrics are key for the season using geometric and pixellation techniques. I do florals, but I try to be contemporary rather than twee, using a pixellation technique that creates a floral design with a suggestion of geometry in the metallic yarns.”
Over the past year she has combined working as embroidery technical demonstrator at Bath Spa University with developing her creative signature. “I’m still testing the market really. Experience has given me the confidence – all those years of trend research and colour. One of my strong points is I know how to create a story. And I know how buyers work, how they react.”
That said, going solo has been a tough option. “It’s expensive and time consuming. Even more established people I’ve chatted to at PVD say that knowing what the market wants can be hit and miss. But I do love the challenge and I love that I’m working for myself, bringing together all my experience.”
Jayne's home studio
We speak again by phone a month after PVD ends and she is enthusiastic about the many contacts she made. “I sold to Italians, Spanish, Japanese, Chinese and Americans – and a big catwalk brand. And I met some big factories. These connections are going to be really important for the future.”
She is not deterred by the challenges ahead. “I have always worked long hours – and now it’s for me alone! Long-term, I would like to have my own brand and create my own product. But the past year has been such a great start. Without Texprint, I would never have attempted to show at PVD so soon after my MA – it was such a leap, it stuck me right out there. And suddenly people were buying.” Indeed they were.
A sample from Jayne's successful 2015 collection