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Texprint London 2012
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Carlo Volpi at Pitti Filati, 23-25 January
23 February 2013 by Editor
Good to hear from Carlo Volpi (Texprint 2012) following his return from Pitti Filati, Florence, where Carlo was asked to create knitted garments for the Spazio Ricerca of Pitti Filati, the central research space dedicated to future vision, design and artisanal skills.
The inspiration for Carlo’s one-off pieces came from his research into cultural festivals: music festivals, folk/religious festivals like "El Dia de Los Muertos" (Day of The Dead) in Mexico, and sagras (traditional Italian food festivals). As always, the research area provided drama and focus for those visitors looking to be excited by new ideas and creativity; the mannequins lined up on the central runway, surrounded by colourful petals strewn on the floor, and screens to each side showed videos of the various festivals.
Read more on Carlo’s blog for the Knitting Industry website where he regularly posts on anything he finds inspiring - emerging or established designer’s work, new yarns and exciting stitches.
tel : +44 (0)7983 970703
In the loop: Texprint 2012’s knitwear specialists
17 February 2013 by Editor
Knitwear continues its resurgence embraced by emerging designers who continue to transform its traditions into exciting contemporary textiles, both for fashion and interiors. Texprint 2012 revealed some wonderful work by talented newcomers.
RCA MA graduate Carlo Volpi scooped the Texprint 2012 Body prize for best fashion fabric. He describes himself as “a man who knits”, but this description downplays this imaginative designer’s clever, innovative output. His eclectic design references include the Italian Constructivists, the Mexican tradition of the Day of the Dead, masks, superheroes and comic book characters. By creating bold and colourful menswear, Carlo harnesses traditional knit techniques in a fresh and eclectic manner. Alongside his freelance commissions, Carlo now writes a blog for www.knittingindustry.com
Carlo Volpi with Sarah Rutson and Ross Urwin of luxury retailer Lane Crawford HK
Japanese designer Azusa Dannohara creates dramatically colourful and sculptural knitted pieces. Her distinctive work is inspired by paganism, rituals and dance and plays with unusual colour combinations and mixed fibres such as merino wool and linen.
Azusa Dannohara on her stand at Indigo Paris
Catherine Hodgkinson’s accomplished designs are based on natural textures such as rocks and stones worn smooth through time, or gritty, earthy surfaces. Finely drawn observation work is translated into highly desirable fabrics through a sensitive selection of yarn and subtle colour. Catherine also adds devoréand discharge printing techniques to further add to the delicacy of her pieces.
Textile: ©Catherine Hodgkinson
Heriot Watt-trained knit specialist Charlotte Crombie’s work for domestic interiors was inspired by a trip to Zanzibar. Her final year collection, using lambswool and cashmere, was based on the decorative patterns and colours of Morocco.
Textile: ©Charlotte Crombie
The landscape of Guri Pedersen’s native Norway is a rich source of inspiration. References to national costume, folk traditions and the landscape are incorporated into a rich mix of textures and felting techniques that she mixes to create her highly distinctive knitted fabrics.
Sketchbook: ©Guri Pederson
Working her magic with knits for womenswear, MA graduate Sarah Burton takes a clever mixed media approach which results in rich and surprising textiles. Sarah - who has already been snapped up by textile design company Acorn Conceptual Textiles in Nottingham - incorporates decorative metal rings, hooks and buckles in her beautiful pieces created with silk, cotton and viscose.
Textile: ©Sarah Burton
WSA magazine: Build inner strength with the talent of tomorrow
23 January 2013 by Editor
The January issue of WSA magazine features an interview with Sheree Waterson executive vice president and chief product officer of Lululemon Athletica (Texprint foundation sponsors) focused on the thinking behind Lululemon’s support for Texprint and, in Sheree's words, the importance of infusing “the organisation with new talent that sees the world in new ways.”
The inaugural Lululemon Texprint Award was won by Texprint 2012 designers Manri Kishimoto and Sophie Reeves who each received £1,000 and a prestigious 3-month paid internship at Lululemon’s Vancouver headquarters which started this January.
The article offers insight not only into the ethos of this rapidly growing North American business, but also highlights the cultural philosophy and yogic principles that Lululemon encourages in its work force and that feeds into its success.
In the article Sheree says: “In terms of leadership, the interns are going to be immersed in our culture of vision, goal-setting and personal accountability. Additionally they will learn our design principles at Lululemon; combining fashion and function, West Coast lifestyle with European styling and creating their designs through those filters.”
Personal mentoring and well-managed internships are the cornerstones on which graduates can build and fast track their experience gathering. The Texprint programme has long had mentoring at its core and with its sponsor-partners is planning to further develop this aspect of the programme through 2013.
WSA (World Sports Activewear) is a widely recognised, award-winning international publication for material development in the performance wear market. Published six times a year it provides an up-to-date analysis of technical developments, commercial trends and offers valuable business management information. To subscribe to WSA go to www.sportstextiles.com
Texprint 2012: weave wizards
09 January 2013 by Joyce Thornton
Proof if needed that the ancient craft of weaving is in the ascendant: Texprint 2012 weave designers couple patience and precision with a love for the physicality and excitement of creating fabric from scratch, and their work is being snapped up by international fashion and interiors companies.
Lisa Bloomer is passionate about colour and sustainable practices, and is continually exploring new ways to succeed in her ”fight against the geometric.” Inspired by looking through windows at ever changing sky and cloud patterns above the city’s high-rise buildings, Lisa focuses on capturing transitory movement in her work. This spontaneity is tangible in all her designs, she uses colour in a fresh and dynamic way and achieves many unique effects by first hand painting on the warp.
Lisa’s jacquard designs are woven bespoke by Thomas Ferguson Irish Linen the only Irish linen damask weaver still remaining in Ireland. She aims to source local fibres such as European hemp, linen and British wool.
Textile: ©Dominique Caplan
Dominique Caplan creates quirky and energetic concepts for menswear. Fascinated by the technical process of weaving, her primary research involved creating characters and models for games to develop her ideas of fun and fantasy. By working in monochrome with added shots of bright colour, Dominique quietly references Bridget Riley’s black and white optical illusion patterns.
Textile: ©Sophia Fenlon
Sophia Fenlon’s work is inspired by ornate ecclesiastical decoration and stained glass. Catholic traditions and the Renaissance are references for Sophia’s work created for both fashion and interiors. Sophia says, she is “intrigued by the weird and wonderful, and the exploration of extreme extra weft patterning, which gives rise to intricately constructed woven designs.”
Textile: ©Jacquie Lefferts
Inspired by Indian maharajahs, brocades and heavy military embroidery, Jacquie Lefferts creates opulent fabrics using metallic yarns. Jacquie has also re-created lace effects using a Leno weave technique to great effect. Having studied at FIT in New York for two years, Jacquie then completed her BA at Chelsea College of Art & Design before being selected for Texprint.
Fantasy and surrealism are aspects that inspired Alix Massieux’s fabric collection. Although a weave specialist, Alix is driven to mix techniques and experiment with embroidery. To read more, click here.
Textile: ©Sophie Manners
Sophie Manners, a graduate of the Royal College of Art, was selected as winner of the second Woolmark Texprint Award in support of the Campaign for Wool Indigo/Première Vision in September. Sophie won the prize for her superb woven textile designs developed with 60% or more Merino wool. Sophie loves colour and texture and being playful with these two elements. It was her reinvented traditional woven pieces on the theme of hair and fur, and her experimental approach to constructing fabrics with often unexpectedly tactile surfaces, that caught the judges’ attention. In November Sophie completed a seven-week internship with Taroni in Como, a unique opportunity to experience working in textiles in Italy.
Textile: ©Sophie Reeves
Finally, captivated by the physicality of creating woven fabrics and inspired by 1930’s fabric design and Russian Constructivism, Sophie Reeves loves to mix graphic pattern with “random outbursts” of additions such as applied crystal decoration. In November Sophie finished a seven-week internship with Luigi Verga, Como - while there with five other Texprint designers, enjoying an invaluable experience gathering visit to the Missoni and Ermenegildo Zegna headquarters.
Sophie is one of two designers selected by Lululemon Athletica as winners of the inaugural Lululemon Texprint Award, winning not only £1,000 but also a three-month paid internship at Lululemon headquarters in Vancouver, Canada, starting this month (the other winner is Manri Kishimoto).