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Texprint London 2012
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Alice Temperley MBE: fabulous fabrics and fashion success
16 December 2011 by Joyce Thornton
Fashion designer to the A-list, Alice Temperley is one of Texprint’s most successful alumni. In 2011 she celebrated her 10th anniversary in the fashion industry, a year in which she was awarded an MBE for services to the fashion industry in the New Year Honours list; she received the Designer of the Year Award at the Hollywood Style Awards in November; and in which she published True British, an archive of her work.
Alice’s love of fabric has always been the starting point for her designs. Her reputation has been built on creating delicately beautiful clothes, which are often lavished with lace, embroidery and beading. These exquisite pieces have made her a favourite of celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez, Helena Christiansen, Florence Welch and Kate Middleton, now The Duchess of Cambridge. And in a huge publicity coup, Pippa Middleton wore a dazzling emerald Temperley dress to the evening reception of this year’s Royal Wedding.
Alice Temperley: embroidery detail
In 2010 Alice brought out a diffusion line, ALICE by Temperley, of which Alice says: “I had wanted to create a more affordable range for a long time, and the continuing recession just brought these plans forward. ALICE has a funky, youthful, bohemian and eclectic appeal.” The label has already gained an impressive list of fans, including Rihanna, Emma Watson and Beyoncé.
Alice’s output is prolific; along with her design team of just five, she creates 13 collections a year including bridalwear. Stocked in an impressive 220 boutiques in 35 countries, Alice and her husband Lars von Bennigsen, the company’s CEO, have plans to make Temperley an all-encompassing lifestyle brand to include homeware, menswear and childrenswear, as well as on-going collaborations with British heritage brands Barbour and Twinings.
Apart from her talent and much hard work, Alice’s success is undoubtedly linked to her innate understanding of what women want to wear, regardless of trends. She explains: “I’m inspired by lots of different eras; the 1920s, ‘30s and ’70s are all particular reference points, mixing in elements from Film Noir and Hollywood romance. I’ve built up a huge archive of imagery and materials over the years which I’m always adding and referring to. I’m also inspired by many stylish women that I know, women who dress for themselves, just throwing pieces together to look amazing.”
Alice Temperley working on final details
Alice showed an entrepreneurial streak from a very early age - making and selling her own jewellery at 11, working with print at 14, and making and selling her first clothes at just 18. She went on to study printed textiles at Central St Martins, followed by an MA at the RCA.
Alice was selected by Texprint in 1999 and has been a champion of the charity since then, lending her support as a judge for the Print Prize in 2006. She has employed Texprint-selected talent, who she describes as “excellent”. Alice feels that being chosen for Texprint is a badge of excellence and dedication. She says: “The Texprint experience gives young designers an invaluable confidence to pursue varied careers in the industry.” Her advice to new design graduates is: “Get as much work experience as possible so that you become aware of the wide and varied career paths that are now open to you.” Also, especially in the current climate: “Be determined and never give up.”
Temperley London
http://www.temperleylondon.com/
ALICE by Temperley
Counter Feat: raising vital funds for LPT
02 December 2011 by Joyce Thornton
Pat Albeck for LPT
One of Texprint’s stalwart supporters, London Printworks Trust has launched an imaginative initiative to raise vital funds. The campaign, called Counter Feat, was launched at an event at its Brixton base on Tuesday 29 November. The Trust is currently threatened with closure if funding cannot be raised in time – to fill the huge gap left following the shock withdrawal of Arts Council funding earlier this year.
Printing at Counter Feat launch
The idea was conceived by Lorna Dallas-Conte, LPT’s executive director, who said: “We are addressing this crisis by literally printing our own money and we have been excited by the enthusiastic response from eager art collectors. The art notes are set to be a runaway success; not only artistically but in saving a unique specialist textile resource that is vital to the creative ecology and many printmakers working in London. We hope art notes might even become an annual event in the future.”
Eley Kishimoto for LPT
Launched in time to make an ideal Christmas present for your creative family and friends, the art notes are available as a limited edition, all hand printed at LPT.
Drying bank notes at LPT
You can invest in the impressive full set – or simply choose a favourite from one of the great designs by 10 distinguished artistic friends of the Trust. Fashion designers Eley Kishimoto, Jonathan Saunders, Holly Fulton, Heikki Salonen and Zandra Rhodes, have joined forces with sculptor Bill Woodrow, illustrator Will Broome, artist and textile designer Pat Albeck, textile designer Sarah Campbell, and Hemmingway Design. This outstanding line-up has donated their time and talent to support the initiative. Spread the word and snap them up now while you can.
Bill Woodrow for LPT
London Printworks Trust was established in 1992. Their specialist facilities have recently been upgraded and offer a fantastic spacious working environment that is available with on-site industry assistance if required. The Trust offers internships and bursaries and is a vital support for emerging talent in print. Texprint’s Lauren Bowker is currently based there. Lauren, who recently graduated from the RCA, can’t yet afford to set up her own studio – and the opportunity she has been given at the Trust has been a lifeline to her.
Will Broome for LPT
As well as supporting emerging designers, the Trust runs an exciting programme of events, courses and exhibitions and has a vital community outreach remit, including programmes for adults with learning difficulties and a 14-16 engagement scheme.
The Arts Council recently recognised the value of the Trust: “London Printworks Trust has a strong role in providing unique expertise and production facilities for artists and designers. In light of the limited resources available, it was with regret that Arts Council England decided not to fund the organisation’s application through its national portfolio.”
To buy the art notes visit:
For further information on the Trust and the Counter Feat initiative contact:
Lauren Bowker: textiles, art, science
23 November 2011 by Joyce Thornton
Lauren Bowker is a maverick who works at the intersection of textiles, art and science. One of Texprint’s 24 from 2011 and a recent RCA MA printed textiles graduate, her practice is a world away from the conventional route of creating patterned fabrics. Her vision lies in the exciting possibilities opened up by advances in printing inks, new technology and techniques. Lauren is inspired by “making the invisible, visible” and her work has produced a number of exciting and unusual outcomes.
Lauren Bowker: cabinet detail, RCA Work in Progress exhibition 2011
Intriguing is a word that best describes much of Lauren’s work – her exhibit for the Work in Progress exhibition at the RCA in January 2011 caused many visitors to stop and ponder. Entitled ‘Several stages to show the release of a phoenix’, it was a precisely arranged curiosity cabinet, reminiscent of a Victorian pharmacy, which contained glass jars holding specimens of charred paper, fabric and tools. Lauren revealed the mysterious finished concept at her final exhibition at the RCA in the shape of a fictional creature encased in a vintage glass display case. The magic began with a flick of a hidden switch as the ‘bird’ began to move and its feathers dramatically changed colour.
Feather detail, printed with thermochromic inks
The science behind this fascinating work involves the use of thermochromic inks. Lauren’s exploration of the uses of these and other ‘smart’ inks and materials is where her true interest lies. As well as currently developing possibilities for use in the ‘theatre of fashion’ for shows and exhibitions, Lauren’s work also holds the promise of more serious applications in healthcare. For example, colour changing inks can be highly useful in creating visual alerts for medical staff as warning of physiological changes. Lauren has recently secured a position as an assistant at the Northumbria University’s London-based research hub, and will soon be working with leading academics on an exciting, on-going project called Active Materials for Living.
Lauren Bowker at London Printworks Trust
In addition, Lauren has been given studio space at Brixton-based charity London Printworks Trust; an opportunity made possible through a bursary from the Leverhulme Trust. This will give her access to facilities to be able to continue her personal creative work. James Bosley, Texprint supporter and senior printmaker at London Printworks Trust, has been instrumental in assisting Lauren in this crucial stage of her career.
Lauren in the print room at LPT
A whirlwind recent few months has seen Lauren exhibit with Texprint in London, Shanghai and Paris. This generated much interest and resulted in freelance commissions which have kept Lauren very busy, as well as travelling across the UK to speak at various universities about her pioneering work.
Lauren is pushing the boundaries of what textiles can be, and Texprint was quick to recognise and support the exciting potential of this young creative with her innovative and original approach.
To see Lauren speak about her work, visit this RCA video:
http://www.rca.ac.uk/Default.aspx?ContentID=514647&GroupID=161164
Website : http://www.phnx.co/ Contact: studio@phnx.co
For more on Active Materials for Living research at Northumbria
London Printworks Trust is a registered charity, based in Brixton, South London, with impressive printing facilities. The Trust’s work spans many activities and its aims include forging stronger links between art and design, providing support for small businesses and offering educational activities within the local community and beyond. In addition, it works to provide continuing professional development and has links with larger commercial companies that also use its facilities.
Lost in Lace exhibition at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery
15 November 2011 by Joyce Thornton
Annie Bascoul's installation
Lost in Lace is an inspiring, free exhibition featuring 20 international artists, currently showing at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery until the 19th February. The UK’s Crafts Council has worked in partnership with the gallery to stage this impressive array of work featuring lace which ranges from the delicate to the monumental. Curated by Lesley Millar MBE, professor of textile culture at the University of the Creative Arts, and set in the huge Gas Hall, the exhibition explores the relationship between textiles and space through a series of installations.
Bold, large scale work in the exhibition includes a piece by Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota, which forms a web of black thread that ‘traps’ a white staircase. Annie Bascoul’s dream-like dual installation consists of a beautiful, intricate screen which casts shadows across the floor, and a delicate, ‘floating’ bed of feathers. Atelier Manferdini, supported by Swarovski, presents a spectacular, sparkling floor-to-ceiling hanging created from 600 crystal strands.
The variety of themes and approaches in the exhibition is fascinating and includes Michael Brennand-Wood’s intriguing installation. His piece is made up of black and red roundels created from aluminium, which reveal his anti-militaristic stance. He explains: “My intention is to construct a ‘military lace’ emblematic of conflict and the annexing of resources and territory.”
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A number of artists involved in the exhibition use their knowledge of science in their work. Tamar Frank’s lighting piece uses phosphorescent thread to reveal complex curves. She explains: “Like lace making I am in fact repeating the same action over and over. And, as with lace making, I am creating a work from a single thread, the pattern often defined by the space in between the threads: by the emptiness.” Alessia Giardino’s Polluted Lace piece employs screen printing and photo-catalytic concrete to create a pattern from pollution, which emerges gradually during exposure to the environment.
Alongside the Lost in Lace exhibition, BMAG has also created a complementary exhibition in its Bridge Gallery, Lost in Lace: Concealed and Revealed, curated by Gail Baxter. This new display of lace from the Museum’s textile collection reveals some of the fascinating stories and the sometimes dark history of these delicate and coveted textiles.
Lost in Lace, 29 October 2011 to 19 November 2012
Gas Hall at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, Chamberlain Square, Birmingham B3 3DH
Opening times: Monday to Thursday and Saturday10am to 5pm, Friday 10.30 to 5pm, Sunday 12.30am to 5pm
+44 (0)121 303 1966 bmag_enquiries@birmingham.gov.uk
For more information about the exhibition and the artists http://lostinlace.org.uk/