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Texprint London 2012
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Exhibition alert: Social Fabric at Iniva, London
17 January 2012 by Joyce Thornton
Social Fabric opens on 19 January 2012 at the Institute of International Visual Arts (Iniva) in London, and continues until 10 March 2012. Through textiles the exhibition explores colonial history, international trade, labour and militant politics. It features both recent and historical archival material plus the individual work of two contemporary artists, Alice Creischer and Sudhir Patwardhan.
Alice Creischer’s work, inspired by a trip to India, looks at the economic and social impact of European colonialism and subsequent globalisation - for instance, the craze for imported Indian chintz that caused protest from Spitalfield’s weavers in 1719 and was ultimately hugely detrimental to whole sections of English textile production. Her installation - called Apparatus for the Osmotic Compensation of the Pressure of Wealth during the Contemplation of Poverty - references cycles of investment, disinvestment and decline.
Sudhir Patwardhan, Lower Parel, 2001
Sudhir Patwardhan focusses on Mumbai where the textiles industry employs one in three of the city’s workers. His painting Lower Parel (2001) shows Girangaon, a mill village typical of those that transformed the city’s economy and led to the Indian industrial revolution.
Complex socio-economic subjects are examined through an extensive display of archival loans and artist interventions, including Indian chintz, original journals from Karl Marx, company paintings, films, photographs, newspaper articles and recordings of mill workers’ testimonies.
Social Fabric is curated by Grant Watson, in collaboration with Christine Checinska, Nida Ghouse, Shanay Jhaveri, Nada Raza and Karen Roswell.
A series of talks and events will complement the exhibition and a Social Fabric symposium has been scheduled for 10 March 2012 (venue TBC). Guest speakers will include trade unionists, artists and academics who will contribute to discussions, talks and performances around textile production in relation to international trade, labour and politics. The programme has been arranged by Christine Checinska and speakers include Professors Sarat Maharaj, John Hutnyk and Janis Jefferies and artist Sudhir Patwardhan.
New Horizons: Marie Parsons, Allison Pilling and Ruth Duff
07 January 2012 by Joyce Thornton
2011 was an eventful and exciting year for all of Texprint’s 24. In the second of a series of updates, we highlight some of the exciting developments in the burgeoning careers of these talented textile designers. Here Allison Pilling, Marie Parsons and Ruth Duff share some of their Texprint experiences.
Marie Parsons, decorative trunk
Marie Parsons began an exciting new job in September 2011 as colour and material designer for the luxury car company Jaguar, based in Leeds. She says: “I am really enjoying the unexpected direction in which my career is moving.” Marie’s distinctive and imaginative mixed media work has application for both fashion and interiors.
Marie Parsons, shoes
She explains, “My new job is really opening my eyes, I am learning so much and really enjoying the challenge. I also intend to start working on a range of my own accessories in 2012 and will I continue to sell embroidery and mixed media work as a freelance designer, which I have been doing successfully since 2008.” For Marie, exhibiting with Texprint was a great opportunity to showcase her work: “I found that that the direct discussion and communication with industry professionals was one of the most insightful aspects of my Texprint experience. It was really valuable to listen to buyers and designers discussing how they would potentially use my fabrics and reproduce my techniques.”
Allison Pilling, printed textile
For printed textile specialist Allison Pilling the experience of exhibiting with Texprint in 2011 was confidence-boosting and career-changing: “I was excited about exhibiting at Indigo, Paris, and then I sold 26 designs! I was in complete shock. I sold 10 designs to a Brazilian company and then within 10 minutes I sold another 10 designs to a French company. Everything happened really quickly! I also sold five designs to Agnès B.
Allison Pilling, printed textile design
Exhibiting at Indigo gave me such a great insight into how the design world works. I hadn't previously considered working for myself - but I now know that this is possible - and that my designs would sell. It has opened so many doors - to work with companies from around the world. When I left university, I was dreading being out in the ‘big bad world’ – but now I'm really excited.”
Ruth Duff, selection of woven fabrics
Finally, weave specialist Ruth Duff is now working at Lovat Mill in the Scottish Borders. The company is renowned for its production of tweed fabrics and Ruth is working in the design department during a year’s placement. Ruth found her time as one of the Texprint 24 incredibly valuable. She says: “Indigo, Paris was a fantastic opportunity and a great experience. I didn’t know what to expect from the week but it was a real confidence boost to have interest and sales from design companies in the industry. It was a big learning curve; displaying and valuing my work and sticking to the original price that I had worked out was fair - through to writing invoices. I had a couple of sales at the show and I spoke to many designers from various companies who gave me some great feedback about my collections. I now have many contacts for future commissions.”
Look out for further updates on more of the Texprint 24 coming soon.
New Horizons: Emma Shipley, Momo Wang and Harriet Toogood
23 December 2011 by Joyce Thornton
2011 has been a momentous year for all of Texprint’s 24. In the first of a series of updates, we highlight some of the exciting developments in the fledgling careers of these talented emerging textile designers. Here, Emma Shipley, Momo Wang and Harriet Toogood share some of their Texprint experiences.
Emma Shipley’s design work - a wonderful mix of fine draftsmanship combined with vibrant colour - has attracted a long queue of clients. Emma’s covetable scarves are now on sale at the prestigious London designer store, Browns. Added to this, her collaboration with Tomasz Donocik, Jewellery Designer of the Year 2011, resulted in a display in November 2011 at London jeweller Garrard; a unique combination of Emma’s silk scarves with embellished jewellery elements. This display has now transferred to the Garrard concession at Harvey Nichols in London until January 2012. Other projects include design for interiors, both fabrics and wallpaper, which will go on sale in 2012. Emma will exhibit at London Fashion Week in Feburary 2012, launching her new accessories collection for autumn/winter 2012/13.
Emma Shipley at her stand, Indigo, Paris 2011
Limited edition prints of Emma’s beautiful drawings were recently on show in the Great Room of interior design company 1508’s building in central London. The interest in the drawings themselves came about through exhibiting with Texprint. Emma has also been commissioned to create an installation piece for apparel giant VF Corporation’s Innovation Summit, to be held in March 2012 at its headquarters in the US.
Emma says: “It was fantastic to be selected by Texprint, and to win the Pattern prize. I had the opportunity to exhibit in London, Paris, Shanghai and Hong Kong, as well as travelling to Como to visit some great traditional silk printing mills. The response to my work was so positive, and I’ve made some great contacts with potential clients, stockists and suppliers.”
Momo Wang’s playful spirit and love of colour and texture is distilled in her imaginative mixed-media work.
Momo Wang's textiles showcased in her graduate collection 2011
Momo has now established her own studio in Dalston, London and has launched her own brand called MoshrooM. Her funky, fun handcraft line is now available to buy through the website Etsy.
Garment detail, Momo Wang
Momo says: “It was such a lovely experience for me to exhibit with Texprint. It has been so helpful - I sold designs and I’ve got all the payments! I’ve been commissioned by a Shanghai company though exhibiting at Indigo and I’m now designing for them. I am so happy to go to my studio every day and do my work.”
Fabric detail, Harriet Toogood 2011
Finally, Harriet Toogood’s outstanding work in weave saw her scoop two prestigious awards this year: the Space prize at Texprint London, and then the Woolmark Texprint Award in support of the Campaign for Wool at Indigo, Paris. Harriet’s bold work is characterised by her creative use of materials, such as mixing plastics with wool for a fresh approach to woven textiles. Harriet says: “I haven't stopped since graduating and being part of Texprint London. Without Texprint I would not have had the opportunities or experiences that I have had over the last few months, I have loved every minute of it!
Harriet Toogood (centre) with Chloe Hambiln and David Bradley visiting a Ratti print facility during ComOn 2011
Each trip - London, Shanghai, Paris and Como - has been of great benefit and also fun! I’ve now started a six-month paid placement at Camira Fabrics in Leeds, and I’m there until April.“Through Texprint, it was really interesting to see what other graduates are doing across the country and I have made some really good friends along the way.”
Look out for further updates on more of the Texprint 24 in early 2012.
Alice Temperley MBE: fabulous fabrics and fashion success
16 December 2011 by Joyce Thornton
Fashion designer to the A-list, Alice Temperley is one of Texprint’s most successful alumni. In 2011 she celebrated her 10th anniversary in the fashion industry, a year in which she was awarded an MBE for services to the fashion industry in the New Year Honours list; she received the Designer of the Year Award at the Hollywood Style Awards in November; and in which she published True British, an archive of her work.
Alice’s love of fabric has always been the starting point for her designs. Her reputation has been built on creating delicately beautiful clothes, which are often lavished with lace, embroidery and beading. These exquisite pieces have made her a favourite of celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez, Helena Christiansen, Florence Welch and Kate Middleton, now The Duchess of Cambridge. And in a huge publicity coup, Pippa Middleton wore a dazzling emerald Temperley dress to the evening reception of this year’s Royal Wedding.
Alice Temperley: embroidery detail
In 2010 Alice brought out a diffusion line, ALICE by Temperley, of which Alice says: “I had wanted to create a more affordable range for a long time, and the continuing recession just brought these plans forward. ALICE has a funky, youthful, bohemian and eclectic appeal.” The label has already gained an impressive list of fans, including Rihanna, Emma Watson and Beyoncé.
Alice’s output is prolific; along with her design team of just five, she creates 13 collections a year including bridalwear. Stocked in an impressive 220 boutiques in 35 countries, Alice and her husband Lars von Bennigsen, the company’s CEO, have plans to make Temperley an all-encompassing lifestyle brand to include homeware, menswear and childrenswear, as well as on-going collaborations with British heritage brands Barbour and Twinings.
Apart from her talent and much hard work, Alice’s success is undoubtedly linked to her innate understanding of what women want to wear, regardless of trends. She explains: “I’m inspired by lots of different eras; the 1920s, ‘30s and ’70s are all particular reference points, mixing in elements from Film Noir and Hollywood romance. I’ve built up a huge archive of imagery and materials over the years which I’m always adding and referring to. I’m also inspired by many stylish women that I know, women who dress for themselves, just throwing pieces together to look amazing.”
Alice Temperley working on final details
Alice showed an entrepreneurial streak from a very early age - making and selling her own jewellery at 11, working with print at 14, and making and selling her first clothes at just 18. She went on to study printed textiles at Central St Martins, followed by an MA at the RCA.
Alice was selected by Texprint in 1999 and has been a champion of the charity since then, lending her support as a judge for the Print Prize in 2006. She has employed Texprint-selected talent, who she describes as “excellent”. Alice feels that being chosen for Texprint is a badge of excellence and dedication. She says: “The Texprint experience gives young designers an invaluable confidence to pursue varied careers in the industry.” Her advice to new design graduates is: “Get as much work experience as possible so that you become aware of the wide and varied career paths that are now open to you.” Also, especially in the current climate: “Be determined and never give up.”
ALICE by Temperley