Texprint: from Interview to Première Vision Designs
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Texprint talks: Gilles Lasbordes, MD of Première Vision
17 June 2013 by
Gilles Lasbordes is the managing director of Première Vision S.A., the leading international textile and fabric show, otherwise known as PV. Première Vision was established in 1973 as a group presentation by 15 Lyonnais silk weavers. Today the Paris-based exhibition is the corner stone of Première Vision Pluriel, the group of six shows – Première Vision, Expofil, Indigo, Modamont, Le Cuir à Paris and Zoom by Fatex - that service the fashion industry from fibre to leather, accessories, textile designs and fabrics. With over 1,900 international exhibitors, the show group brings together 58,000 fashion industry professionals in Paris twice a year.
Each September, through the generous sponsorship of Première Vision SA, the 24 selected Texprint designers are given the opportunity to have their own exhibition stands at Indigo, the show of original textile and surface design. And the event also hosts the Texprint prize giving ceremony. Gilles is passionate about supporting and nurturing young design talent as he tells Texprint:
Congratulations on your recent promotion. Can you tell us about your new role?
I started working for Première Vision in 2004 and I recently became the managing director of the Première Vision group. My role involves strategic and operational management, I am closely involved with our ongoing worldwide events – in total we have 24 shows per year. I am more directly involved with the Indigo (Paris, New York, Brussels), Modamont and Expofil shows and many back office activities that make our events a reality.
Left: Gilles Lasbordes
Paris looks like a beautiful place to live – good food, gorgeous architecture and a rich culture - what is a typical day like for you?
There’s no such thing as a typical day for me. When I am not travelling, I often have meetings to discuss and prepare the upcoming exhibitions whether they are one month or up to a year in the future. But I do have a motorbike which I ride everyday – I love travelling around Paris, seeing the beautiful architecture and monuments.
Première Vision has exhibitions in New York, Sao Paulo, Brussels, Moscow and Shanghai as well as Paris, and you hold exhibitor meetings around the world, how often do you travel on business, what do you enjoy about it and what are your favourite places to visit?
I travel a lot because we are an international company and Paris is an international show not only from the exhibitors’ point of view but also from the visitors’ point of view. I really don’t have a favourite place to visit. Every country I visit is different, each city is very diverse and what I love is seeing the diversity of the fashion industry. Also now with globalisation brands have become global, but I enjoy seeing local brands as they make the market more interesting and diverse.
The exhibitions Première Vision, Modamont and Indigo have direct links with and support three organisations that nurture new design talent. Can you tell us why you have made this an integral part of your activities?
Première Vision, Expofil and Modamont all focus on the creative part of the fashion industry - we are not a trade show for commodities. When you are a trade show organiser and your event represents an industry on such a large scale, you have to support the industry you work for. Whether they will work for textile or fashion companies, we believe that graduate designers are the future of our industry. We support the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography, International Talent Support and Texprint because we want to help a new generation of creators to emerge. We want to help that generation to maintain a highly creative fashion industry in the future. Texprint is very textile-oriented so we share the same roots, textiles is what Première Vision is made of.
Nearly half of Indigo’s exhibitors are based in / trained in Britain. What is it about the UK’s art school system that produces so many creative talents?
Well from my point of view, UK art and design schools have a good balance between being creative and being market-oriented. This understanding of the industry, the mix of high creativity and business, is what companies are expecting from their new employees.
What does the addition of the Texprint group in September add to the mix of studios at Indigo?
At Indigo studios present their own culture, DNA and artistic direction. The Texprint designers give us boundless creativity and innovation, it is our R&D. They often present something new and innovative, for example, in the way they mix various innovative textile techniques such as print and embroidery, print and knitted garments or 3D textiles with unusual raw materials.
Being able to show their designs at Indigo is a really exciting opportunity for the 24 graduate designers; do you have any advice for this year’s Texprint’s group?
I’m hoping to see lots of successful sales and so the designers need to be prepared to negotiate! They should have an idea of prices and also network to make useful connections at Indigo. The designers have to be ready to meet with professionals and act in a professional manner. But I know that they are very well trained by the Texprint team and when they come to Paris they will definitely be ready to make the most of this opportunity.
Trend Forum at Première Vision
Indigo success: Texprint designers exhibit at Indigo, Paris
22 September 2012 by Editor
Texprint celebrated the achievements of the creative world's most exciting new textile design talents at last week's successful showcase at Indigo, Paris. Legendary fashion and trend forecaster Nelly Rodi presented this year's special prizes. Texprint chairman Barbara Kennington was joined on stage by Nelly Rodi and sponsors Peter Ackroyd of The Woolmark Company, Sheree Waterson of Lululemon Athletica and Gilles Lasbordes of Indigo/Première Vision.
Chosen for their creative flair, technical skill, and individuality in knit, weave, print, stitch and mixed media design, as well as a readiness to enter their professional lives, the 24 selected designers are the best of the best from around the globe - all trained in Britain.
More reports to follow.
Texprint Paris special prize presenter 2012: Nelly Rodi
16 September 2012 by
“I’m delighted that Nelly Rodi has agreed to be this year’s special prize presenter at Indigo,” says Texprint’s creative director Peter Ring-Lefevre. Indeed, the entire Texprint team are thrilled to welcome the esteemed creative director and founder of the eponymous trend forecasting company to the podium of the Texprint Village at Indigo, Paris, on Thursday 20 September at 3.30pm where she will be guest of honour at the annual prize ceremony.
Mme Rodi herself has been recognised for her achievements in the world of creation, receiving the Legion of Honour in 1998 from the French President and Officer of the Legion of Honour in 2009.
She founded the NellyRodi Agency in 1985 and the company counts the cream of international fashion and beauty brands such as L’Oréal, Tommy Hilfiger, Marks & Spencer, PPR and LVMH among its clientele. The Agency is known for providing a very sophisticated forecasting service, founded on research and analysis, which considers sociological, creative and marketing influences on future trends. As well as publishing regular Trendlab® forecasting books across several markets and end users, the company works extensively on brand repositioning and bespoke consultancy projects.
Peter is full of praise for the way in which Nelly approaches creative development and design work and recalls working on a project with her in the early 1990s when he was product development manager, menswear, at the The Woolmark Company office in Paris (then called IWFO and part of IWS).
“Nelly had a wonderful way of understanding wool as a natural fibre. She stretched the imagination and technical side of what could be achieved with the fibre in the developing stages,” he says. “She had lots of new ideas, right down to the benefit for various consumer levels. She has a very thorough way of working.”
Texprint takes an equally rigorous approach to selecting the most dynamic and talented new textile designers from UK art schools and universities to take part in the annual mentoring programme.
“British schools seem take a much freer approach to educating their students, mixing different approaches such as photography, art and fashion, leaving the student to express himself, without imposed rule…Freedom gives a lot of energy to fashion,” says Nelly.
As a creative force with a deep understanding of the fashion and interiors industries, Nelly will offer a wealth of advice to the 24 selected textile designers when she visits the designers’ stands at Indigo, part of Première Vision Pluriel. She says she is interested in work that has “an artistic approach, close to an artistic concept, mixed with texture and colours. For drawing, I look for hand-drawing and motifs which are not too commercial or based on actual trends. Technology comes after...”
“Nelly understands that the industry needs to be behind young and creative textile designers,” says Peter. Indeed, Nelly says: “The younger generation brings a lot of positive energy and modernity needed by our ‘old’ textile industry. We find new approaches by looking after the work of the new generation.”
She signs off with the following advice for new graduates: “Don’t be depressed by the textile recession. Make direct contact with leading international garment brands. Keep your freshness and freedom. And dare to create what you have in your hearts.”
Thank you Mme Rodi, we look forward to seeing you in Paris.
For more information about Texprint and to arrange an interview with Nelly Rodi at Indigo, Paris, ahead of the prize presentation at 3pm on Thursday 20 September please email email@example.com or call Delphine Thwaites on +44 (0)20 7250 0589.
The Texprint 24; Indigo highlights 2011
09 October 2011 by
The Texprint 24 exhibited at the textile design show Indigo, Paris, September 20 – 22. For these talented textile designers, chosen from over 200 graduates nominated by their colleges, this was their first experience of selling their work alongside professional, established designers.
This prestigious showcase in Paris is a fantastic platform for the emerging designers and vital to Texprint’s aim of helping to launch the careers of some of the best British graduates. The immediate success of this year’s group was tremendous and with many contacts made and discussions initiated, the positive effects of the show will be felt for many months to come.
Nino Cerruti (centre) views design work by Amy Jo Lewis
Allison Pilling’s colourful prints were tremendously successful. She says: “I sold more than I ever imagined. I was just excited about exhibiting – then I sold 26 designs! I was in complete shock! Brazilian company, La Estampa bought 10 designs, and then I sold another 10 to French company Atoll. American company LeSportsac also bought a design; with the buyers giving me a lot of good advice. They were really complimentary; it was a great confidence boost. I then sold five designs to Agnès B. Agnès is using three of these as part of a new collection. Before Indigo, I hadn't considered the possibility of working for myself and setting up my own company, but I now know that it’s possible - and that my designs would sell. This has opened so many doors... I now have possibilities of working in New York and with other companies from around the world - it’s crazy! When I left university, I was dreading being out in the big bad world, but all that has changed - I'm now really excited about the future.”
Woolmark Judges at Texprint, Indigo, Paris
Knitwear specialist Harri Batty thoroughly enjoyed her experience in Paris; she says: “Indigo was a great success for me - I sold pieces to French labels Didier Parakian and Bleu, Blanc Rouge. I found the selling experience invaluable - writing invoices and discussing sales with clients is nerve racking stuff ... but having the support of the Texprint team made this tricky task a little less scary. The feeling you get from selling is so exciting, it is amazing and reassuring to know that people in the industry want to buy the designs that you so carefully thought about and hand crafted. It spurs you on - for me it was about moving from being a student to a designer.”
Marie Parsons shows buyers her work at Indigo, Paris
Weaver Amy Jo Lewis also felt this transition keenly: “Indigo was a wonderful experience that at long last made me feel like a professional designer as opposed to a student. It was extremely interesting to see what type of customers were attracted to my work – as it was not necessarily where I had initially pitched my collection. Sportswear company Lululemon Athletica was the biggest fan of my work. I’m excited to see how the designers incorporate my designs into their collections. I was also really delighted when H&M bought one of my favourite pieces for a future collection.I also had really positive feedback from a great variety of other industry visitors including, Nino Cerruti, Timothy Everett, Alexander Wang, Nathan Jenden, Maison Anna Heylen and Robert Rodriguez. Indigo was an invaluable learning curve regarding aspects of the design industry that we are not taught at university, such as ways of displaying your work, invoicing correctly, talking professionally to potential clients – including being willing to say no to them at times. I’m now about to begin a two-month traineeship with Tessitura Taiana Virgilio Spa in Lake Como, Italy.”
Emma Shipley’s graphic prints attracted a continual stream of interest. Her lovely scarves were selling fast to individual buyers, and both Parisian and American retailers are currently in discussion with her. In the UK, Browns of South Molton Street will be stocking Emma’s scarves from November.
The Texprint 24 with Agnes B and Barbara Kennington at Indigo, Paris
Weave specialist and the Woolmark Texprint Prize winner Harriet Toogood also found her Paris trip an invaluable experience, she explains: “It exceeded my expectations – my highlight was winning the Woolmark Texprint Award - I was over the moon, yet shocked! I had some great interest and feedback from industry visitors, and I have learnt so much from what they said. I sold some pieces on the final day - I was so delighted when an hour before we took the stands down, I got to write out two invoices. As well as all of that, I was conscious that I was part of a great bunch of people - I could not have asked for a better week.”
These are just a few highlights from an exciting few days. Aside from individual sales, 45 freelance opportunities arose, as well as nine firm job offers and 22 commissions. Beyond those mentioned above, industry visitors to the Texprint village included global sportswear brand Nike; fashion retailers Accessorize and Victoria’s Secret; designers from Louis Vuitton and Roland Mouret himself.